Onder de ruïnes van Efeze

Travels of a non-traveller

The Turkish south Aegean city of Kusadasi isn’t really my kind of place, especially at night – flashing neon lights, loud karaoke bars, tattoo parlours and tacky jewellery stores don’t really strike me as an authentic Turkish experience. However, the seafront is pleasant, there are quiet streets hidden away behind the many mosques, the call to prayer resounds dramatically through the crumbling old town walls, and I’ve made some great friends. There is a solid reason for staying here, too – it is close to the ancient Greco-Roman city of Ephesus, whose remains are among the best preserved in the western world.

Getting there was half the fun, involving two rides on a dolmus (dol-moosh, a shared taxi or minibus running a set route), and a taxi to the far end of the site. I went with my roommate, and we had no trouble finding our way owing to the…

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